Sample Itinerary to Desolation Sound

Okay, Desolation Sound warrants a longer passage as it further away from Nanaimo but also many spectacular places to stop enroute and once there. During the summer it could be quite crowded so early arrivals may be required. The proposal is a 14 day passage that has a few long days and many short days to enjoy the stops. The overall distance is about about 260 nm.

If I were to propose a cruise it might look like this...

Day 1 - Nanaimo to Pender Harbour (crossing Strait of Georgia)
Day 2 - Pender Harbour to Savary Island
Day 3 - Savary Island to Roffey Island
Day 4 - Roffey Island to Roscoe Bay
Day 5 - Roscoe Bay to Teakerne Arm
Day 6 - Teakerne Arm to Von Donop Inlet
Day 7 - Weather Day
Day 8 - Von Donop Inlet to OCtopus Islands
Day 9 - Octopus Islands to Drew Harbour
Day 10 - Drew Harbour to Mansons Landing
Day 11 - Mansons Landing to Comox
Day 12 - Comox to Tribune Bay
Day 13 - Tribune Bay to Schooner Cove
Day 14 - Schooner Cove to Nanaimo

A must to use for planning and underway, the Dreamspeaker Guide for Desolation Sound...

A lot more sailing there and back but once there the locale is amazing and awesome. The summer weather can be fantastic and during spring and fall you will encounter why Captain Vancouver when surveying the northern Strait of Georgia called it Desolation Sound. The gloom, the mist and the isolation all contributed to Captain Vancouver's naming source. However, when the sun shines and the snow capped mountains rise high above you - it is a completely different story.

The Desolation of Desolation Sound

Mount Denam in Desolation Sound

It will take a couple of days to get far enough north before you arrive in Desolation Sound. Weather will determine whether you go up the west or east side of the Strait of Georgia. The east side will offer more protection in the lee of Texada Island and a few more places to duck in if bad weather dictates.

After checking the boat out thoroughly - safety, systems, provisions and crew familiarization - it should be an easy hop across the Strait for an overnight anchorage in Pender Harbour. Lots of little nooks and bays to drop anchor including slips and moorage at local marinas.

Pender Harbour

Next day is a full day underway northwards up the Malaspina Strait to the beach infested north shore of Savary Island. It is so beautiful here that one doesn't want to leave but veg and hang out the rest of the trip. No way for that - it gets better so we must move on. Savary Island needs to be carefully navigated due to the shallow water surrounding 2 of its 4 sides.

Savary Island

Once we have reached Savary Island, the rest of Desolation Sound is now within easy reach. I could write a lot about it but it will be the pictures that will explain the best and the most about Desolation Sound. The big and potentially rough water is now behind us. The mountains start rising out of the water in steep increments.

Time to start cruising...

Just around the corner of Malaspina Peninsula in the Inlet of the same name are a number of amazing harbours, bays, coves, nooks and crannies for boats - we will pick one of the many - Grace Harbour. Any of the overnight stops we will stay at will warrant lingering and a wish to stay - but that will be the case for any or all that we will be going to. So stay firm and keep moving!

Grace Harbour

In the eastern part of Desolation Sound we start to engage its more remotest areas in the shadow of the Coastal Mountains of mainland BC. Most noticiable is the upthrusting rock block of Mount Denman as head past Prideaux Haven to the picturesque and secluded Roffey Island. We have elected to go past Prideaux Haven as it the place where every one goes. It is worth it but it gets plenty crowded.

Prideaux Haven

In Desolation Sound the mountains rise steeply above the water, as steeply as the go below. It makes for challenges to find a place to drop anchor except for the well known havens that we will be visiting.

Roscoe Bay on the other north side of Homfray Channel is an interesting little refuge. It is linked by trail, lake and lagoon to the west side of West Redonda Island to Refuge Cove. You have to really want to go to Roscoe Bay but it is easy to see why. Once there you also have to stay because the tide will keep you there. Entry to the narrow bay is partially obstructed by a bar that is exposed at low tide but passable only at high water. So timing is important coming and going. Black Lake at the top of the bay is accessible and provides good swimming.

Roscoe Bay

 Around the corner at Refuge Cove, it is a must stop to engage in the local history and see what baked goods are to be found. It is very popular so we won't be staying long.

Refuge Cove Store

Part of the history of Desolation Sound includes logging of the forests. At the head of Teakerne Arm is a beautiful waterfall which is headed by freshwater Cassel Lake. The hike up will show some of the logging equipment used and left behind. Rusting old logging equipment that hauled logs from the interior down into the water of the Arm before being taking to the mill. The shelf at the waters edge is very narrow so carefully placement of the anchor is required - there are only a few places that will support an overnight stay under light weather conditions.

Teakerne Arm Waterfall

We will heading around the top end of Cortes Island to a uniquely named Von Donop Inlet. The Inlet bisects the island and connects to Squirrel Cove on the east side via trail. Squirrel Cove is a fairly large anchorage but it is Von Donop with its seclusion and isolation that is the draw. Careful navigation is required to avoid rock hazards.

Von Donop Inlet

It wouldn't be the west coast of BC if we didn't have some tidal passes to deal with. Officially called Beazley Passage or locally Surge Narrows - this narrow pass between a couple of small islands can be confoundingly a nonevent or a furious and highly dangerous flow of water. Just look at the photos!

Beazley Passage - Hold On!

The Octopus Islands, which is also a marine park - is an oasis in the wilderness. Gunkholing at its optimum.

The Octopus Islands

Back through Beazley Passage will take us to the inside of Rebecca Spit on Quadra Island to safe Drew Harbour. A lot of the passages between stops are very short and will allow ample time to go shore side for excursions of all kinds, or beachcombing and kayaking - the sky filled mountains offer no limit.

Rebecca Spit on Quadra Island

Things start to get a bit unusual in where some of the names come from. Much history can be explored to determine where Uganda Spit at the top end of Marina Island came from? Cortes Island of Spanish ancestry is well supported with marinas, provisions and safe anchorage in Gorge Harbour and Mansons Landing.

Entry to Gorge Harbour

You could spend a lifetime discovering and rediscovering new and same places - there is no end. Interestingly, it was Captain Vancouver, remember we started with him that determined that Vancouver Island was in fact an island, because the tides were coming in from the south and the north. This flow of water happens to meet in Desolation Sound and the result is fairly warm water by BC standards permits excellent swimming in the ocean water. The tides still rise and fall significantly but the water doesn't get churned up as much thereby be allowed to warm up from the sun.

Mitlenatch Island - Where South Meets North

It will take at least 2 whole days to comfortably return to the charter base. An overnight stop can be made in a number of places - namely Comox, Henry Bay or Schooner Cove. My choice would be Tribune Bay on the side side of Hornby Island as long as the southerly winds are not blowing.

Tribune Bay of Hornby Island

Whew - what a trip! Can we do it again next year please?