Sample Itinerary to Desolation Sound

Okay, Desolation Sound warrants a longer passage as it further away from Nanaimo but also many spectacular places to stop enroute and once there. During the summer it could be quite crowded so early arrivals may be required. The proposal is a 14 day passage that has a few long days and many short days to enjoy the stops. The overall distance is about about 260 nm.

If I were to propose a cruise it might look like this...

Day 1 - Nanaimo to Pender Harbour (crossing Strait of Georgia)
Day 2 - Pender Harbour to Savary Island
Day 3 - Savary Island to Roffey Island
Day 4 - Roffey Island to Roscoe Bay
Day 5 - Roscoe Bay to Teakerne Arm
Day 6 - Teakerne Arm to Von Donop Inlet
Day 7 - Weather Day
Day 8 - Von Donop Inlet to OCtopus Islands
Day 9 - Octopus Islands to Drew Harbour
Day 10 - Drew Harbour to Mansons Landing
Day 11 - Mansons Landing to Comox
Day 12 - Comox to Tribune Bay
Day 13 - Tribune Bay to Schooner Cove
Day 14 - Schooner Cove to Nanaimo

A must to use for planning and underway, the Dreamspeaker Guide for Desolation Sound...

A lot more sailing there and back but once there the locale is amazing and awesome. The summer weather can be fantastic and during spring and fall you will encounter why Captain Vancouver when surveying the northern Strait of Georgia called it Desolation Sound. The gloom, the mist and the isolation all contributed to Captain Vancouver's naming source. However, when the sun shines and the snow capped mountains rise high above you - it is a completely different story.

The Desolation of Desolation Sound

Mount Denam in Desolation Sound

It will take a couple of days to get far enough north before you arrive in Desolation Sound. Weather will determine whether you go up the west or east side of the Strait of Georgia. The east side will offer more protection in the lee of Texada Island and a few more places to duck in if bad weather dictates.

After checking the boat out thoroughly - safety, systems, provisions and crew familiarization - it should be an easy hop across the Strait for an overnight anchorage in Pender Harbour. Lots of little nooks and bays to drop anchor including slips and moorage at local marinas.

Pender Harbour

Next day is a full day underway northwards up the Malaspina Strait to the beach infested north shore of Savary Island. It is so beautiful here that one doesn't want to leave but veg and hang out the rest of the trip. No way for that - it gets better so we must move on. Savary Island needs to be carefully navigated due to the shallow water surrounding 2 of its 4 sides.

Savary Island

Once we have reached Savary Island, the rest of Desolation Sound is now within easy reach. I could write a lot about it but it will be the pictures that will explain the best and the most about Desolation Sound. The big and potentially rough water is now behind us. The mountains start rising out of the water in steep increments.

Time to start cruising...

Just around the corner of Malaspina Peninsula in the Inlet of the same name are a number of amazing harbours, bays, coves, nooks and crannies for boats - we will pick one of the many - Grace Harbour. Any of the overnight stops we will stay at will warrant lingering and a wish to stay - but that will be the case for any or all that we will be going to. So stay firm and keep moving!

Grace Harbour

In the eastern part of Desolation Sound we start to engage its more remotest areas in the shadow of the Coastal Mountains of mainland BC. Most noticiable is the upthrusting rock block of Mount Denman as head past Prideaux Haven to the picturesque and secluded Roffey Island. We have elected to go past Prideaux Haven as it the place where every one goes. It is worth it but it gets plenty crowded.

Prideaux Haven

In Desolation Sound the mountains rise steeply above the water, as steeply as the go below. It makes for challenges to find a place to drop anchor except for the well known havens that we will be visiting.

Roscoe Bay on the other north side of Homfray Channel is an interesting little refuge. It is linked by trail, lake and lagoon to the west side of West Redonda Island to Refuge Cove. You have to really want to go to Roscoe Bay but it is easy to see why. Once there you also have to stay because the tide will keep you there. Entry to the narrow bay is partially obstructed by a bar that is exposed at low tide but passable only at high water. So timing is important coming and going. Black Lake at the top of the bay is accessible and provides good swimming.

Roscoe Bay

 Around the corner at Refuge Cove, it is a must stop to engage in the local history and see what baked goods are to be found. It is very popular so we won't be staying long.

Refuge Cove Store

Part of the history of Desolation Sound includes logging of the forests. At the head of Teakerne Arm is a beautiful waterfall which is headed by freshwater Cassel Lake. The hike up will show some of the logging equipment used and left behind. Rusting old logging equipment that hauled logs from the interior down into the water of the Arm before being taking to the mill. The shelf at the waters edge is very narrow so carefully placement of the anchor is required - there are only a few places that will support an overnight stay under light weather conditions.

Teakerne Arm Waterfall

We will heading around the top end of Cortes Island to a uniquely named Von Donop Inlet. The Inlet bisects the island and connects to Squirrel Cove on the east side via trail. Squirrel Cove is a fairly large anchorage but it is Von Donop with its seclusion and isolation that is the draw. Careful navigation is required to avoid rock hazards.

Von Donop Inlet

It wouldn't be the west coast of BC if we didn't have some tidal passes to deal with. Officially called Beazley Passage or locally Surge Narrows - this narrow pass between a couple of small islands can be confoundingly a nonevent or a furious and highly dangerous flow of water. Just look at the photos!

Beazley Passage - Hold On!

The Octopus Islands, which is also a marine park - is an oasis in the wilderness. Gunkholing at its optimum.

The Octopus Islands

Back through Beazley Passage will take us to the inside of Rebecca Spit on Quadra Island to safe Drew Harbour. A lot of the passages between stops are very short and will allow ample time to go shore side for excursions of all kinds, or beachcombing and kayaking - the sky filled mountains offer no limit.

Rebecca Spit on Quadra Island

Things start to get a bit unusual in where some of the names come from. Much history can be explored to determine where Uganda Spit at the top end of Marina Island came from? Cortes Island of Spanish ancestry is well supported with marinas, provisions and safe anchorage in Gorge Harbour and Mansons Landing.

Entry to Gorge Harbour

You could spend a lifetime discovering and rediscovering new and same places - there is no end. Interestingly, it was Captain Vancouver, remember we started with him that determined that Vancouver Island was in fact an island, because the tides were coming in from the south and the north. This flow of water happens to meet in Desolation Sound and the result is fairly warm water by BC standards permits excellent swimming in the ocean water. The tides still rise and fall significantly but the water doesn't get churned up as much thereby be allowed to warm up from the sun.

Mitlenatch Island - Where South Meets North

It will take at least 2 whole days to comfortably return to the charter base. An overnight stop can be made in a number of places - namely Comox, Henry Bay or Schooner Cove. My choice would be Tribune Bay on the side side of Hornby Island as long as the southerly winds are not blowing.

Tribune Bay of Hornby Island

Whew - what a trip! Can we do it again next year please?

Sample Itinerary to the Sunshine Coast and Princess Louisa Inlet

So here I am in cold, gray but sunny Toronto imagining a passage to the Sunshine Coast and also up to Princess Louisa Inlet. Where would I go and why? This might be it for 10 days...

Day 1 - Nanaimo to Pender Harbour (crossing Strait of Georgia)
Day 2 - Pender Harbour to Egmont
Day 3 - Egmont to PLI
Day 4 - PLI (Harbour day)
Day 5 - PLI to Harmony Islands
Day 6 - Harmony Islands to Ballet Bay
Day 7 - Ballet Bay to Buccaneer Bay
Day 8 - Buccaneer Bay to Jedediah Island
Day 9 - Jedidiah Island to Schooner Cove (crossing Strait of Georgia)
Day 10 - Schooner Cove to Nanaimo

The idea is that it is not a race but to be able to enjoy the sights and destinations - and to be relaxed while doing it all.

The passage is about 200 nm, a few days that are longer in travel and other days where you are just puddle jumping around.

A serious and informative guide...

 

After leaving the charter base of Nanaimo the first thing to deal with (besides the weather) is the Whiskey Gulf (WG) military missile test range just northeast of Nanaimo and sort of in the way if you are making a crossing to the Sunshine Coast. The bad news is that if they are testing you have to go around and this is most usually done during the week. The good news is that they don't test on weekends so you can take the direct route across. The most important thing no matter what is to call in and check either week day or weekend - you don't want a cruise missile or torpedo chasing you across.

Whiskey Golf Military Test Range

The crossing of the Strait of Georgia can be a mild or extreme adventure. Conditions can be smooth as glass - no wind or all the way to storm warnings with wind on current that translates into dangerous conditions.

I believe in going greater or longer distances at the beginning of a passage to create opportunities for relief in case bad weather keeps you in harbour. So the destination for the first day would be Pender Harbour which is about 35 nm away.

Pender Harbour

Pender Harbour is considered to be the Venice of the Pacific what with the hugely undulating harbour coastline and waterfront buildings and boardwalks. It is a good place to do any last minute provisioning before services disappear on the way to PLI. There are lots of good places to anchor or even to get a slip at a marina.

Next stop is going to be Egmont which is an easy sail or motor up Agamemnon Channel to the mouth of Sechelt Inlet, home of the Skookumchuk Narrows where tidal flow can reach up to 15 knots. Yes - we will stay away from there with our sailboat. This same current but preferably at slack needs to be navigated when berthing in Egmont. Egmont will be our last place to refuel in case we have to motor all the way to PLI.

Skookumchuk Rapids

There are very few places to anchor or holdover on the way to PLI as the water depths drop off severely very close to shore just as the mountains rise quickly out of the water. These narrow fjords are amazing and delight to experience. The 40 nm passage up to PLI needs to be timed to meet slack water at Malibu Rapids just before entering the final inlet to PLI. The rapids at Malibu can hit 4 to 6 Knots so it is advised to wait if you are on a sailboat.

Slack at Malibu Rapids

There are a few places to drop anchor in the narrow shoreline of PLI, as well, there is Macdonald Island that provides good anchorage if the park dock is full and too noisy. It is a ways in to get to PLI so why not make the most of it by staying an extra day. There are hikes that can be made, especially up the mountainside to the Trappers Cabin which is described in the must read of The Curve of Time by Muriel Wylie Blanchet. If there is one book that will get you going to read about the BC coast, its history and people, the industries and the marine environment - it is this book.

Above Princess Louisa Inlet

Princess Louisa Inlet

It is Chatterbox Falls that makes PLI the highlight that it is.

Princess Louisa Inlet at Chatterbox Falls

Leaving PLI must again be timed to transit Malibu Rapids then a passage down the picturesque reaches back to Jervis Inlet. If you have motored a lot, a return to Egmont may be recommended to refuel, otherwise it is on to the Harmony Islands of Hotham Sound where a small cluster of islands in this very scenic locale provides shelter and views.

Harmony Islands

The return passage over the next few days will be a lot easier as they are shorter and within easy reach of Nanaimo if needed due to weather. 

To be navigated only at high water a transit of Telescope Passage takes us between Hardy and Nelson Islands to Blind Bay. There are several well protected anchorages at Musket Island and Ballet Bay. Lots of room for a several boats.

Musket Island

The thing about the Sunshine Coast is that it is more remote and the natural environment is spectacular - much of it only accessible by boat. Ballet Bay is a pretty little bay with some inhabitation. Jim Spilsbury of Queen Charlotte Airlines lived here previously on Nelson Island.

An easy sail down Malaspina Strait starts to take us back to civilization near the Thormanby Islands. Most of the islands in the area have some form of connection to horse racing in their history. Buccaneer Bay is an anchor located between the North and South Islands with on shore access to the park and beaches.

Thormanby Islands

Not too far westwards between Texada and Lasqueti Islands is a group of small islands that has some amazing anchorages in the nooks and crevasses. Plan to get here early before spots disappear. Lasqueti is within a day of Nanaimo so that we can be mindful of weather conditions on the crossing. 

Jedediah Island

Schooner Cove just north of Nanoose Harbour provides a full service marina stop if desired, otherwise Nanaimo can be easily reached in a single day.

Nanaimo looking Towards the Mainland

Yes - we went all the way over to the coastal mountains and returned safely!

Sample Itineraries for 5 Day Instructional Cruises

I may be instructing a 5 day overnight cruise through the Southern Gulf Islands this June/July 2017 through Nanaimo Yacht Charters and Sailing School. So of course I started to imagine all of the great places that one could go to. The following represents some sample cruise routes and destinations - either anchorages or moorages. All are spectacular and very civilized with scenic locales and on shore activities of various kinds.

These routes are very leisurely with no more than 20 nm between anchorages and lots of time for drills and lessons on the water.

The total distance for all of these routes is about 100 nm so it makes for an easy sail among these spectacularly scenic locations. The Dreamspeaker Guides are a must to review and to use as planning sources...

Route No. 1

Day 1 - Nanaimo to Clam Bay (Anchorage)
Day 2 - Clam Bay to Montague Harbour (Mooring Buoy)
Day 3 - Montague Harbour to Princess Bay via Ganges (Anchorage)
Day 4 - Princess Bay to Telegraph Harbour (Moorage)
Day 5 - Telegraph Harbour to Nanaimo (Moorage)

From the charter base it is about 1 hour to Dodd Narrows that must be transited at slack water down the north end of Stuart Channel to the east side of Thetis Island where Clam Bay provides a wide open anchorage that has dinghy access through The Cut to Telegraph Harbour's bistro and pub.

Clam Bay, Thetis Island

Montague Harbour is an easy sail southwards in the Trincomali Channel. Mooring buoys at Montague Harbour Marine Park provide shore access to the park and on shore destinations.

Ganges is a must stop for shore activities - crafts, treats, provisions, coffee shop and bakery. It is a busy marina and active hub for a quick visit.

Ganges

Princess Bay is a very pretty anchorage on the south side of Portland Island with beautiful hikes around the island surveying some interesting heritage locations.

Princess Bay, Portland Island

Going northwards on the return leg one ends up on the west side of Telegraph Harbour after going through Sansum Narrows and the south end of Stuart Channel.There are two marinas for an overnight stay.

The final day's passage takes one through Dodd Narrows once again - timing is important to go through on slack. A return to Nanaimo completes the cruise.

Route No. 2

Day 1 - Nanaimo to Pirate's Cove (Anchorage)
Day 2 - Pirate's Cove to Ganges (Moorage)
Day 3 - Ganges to Genoa Bay via Cowichan Bay (Anchorage)
Day 4 - Genoa Bay to Sibell Bay via Chemainus (Anchorage)
Day 5 - Sibell Bay to Nanaimo (Moorage)

Pirate's Cove is a fun anchorage coming in via a resident painted transit on a rock and a tree over a small bar that needs to be crossed at high water. The anchorage is popular so a stern tie to rings on shore is a must.

Pirate's Cove, De Courcey Island

An overnight in Ganges is great with some fine restaurants and pubs to visit. A side trip to Cowichan Bay is an interesting detour before dropping the hook in Genoa Bay which is a great protected anchorage.

Genoa Bay

On the way northwards through Sansum Narrows and Stuart Channel, a short stop can be made in Chemainus for Sushi or Cinnamon Buns, then on into Ladysmith Harbour for an overnight anchorage in the protected and secluded cove of Sibell Bay. There are day wanderings that can be made into Ladysmith.

Sibell Bay, Ladysmith Harbour

After coordinating with slack current through Dodd Narrows, the final run across Northumberland Strait brings us back to the charter base in Nanaimo.

Route No. 3

Day 1 - Nanaimo to Princess Cove (Anchorage)
Day 2 - Princess Cove to Russell Island (Anchorage)
Day 3 - Russell Island to Bird's Eye Cove (Moorage)
Day 4 - Bird's Eye Cove to North Cove (Anchorage)
Day 5 - North Cove to Nanaimo (Moorage)

Princess Cove is a narrow and sheltered anchorage on beautiful Wallace Island - stern tying to shore is a must. Hiking trails can be accessed on shore.

Wallace Island

The north side of Russell Island provides good protection from southerly winds and Ferry traffic wake. The island has a Hawaiian heritage and walking trails. A stop can be made into Fulford Harbour just 30 minutes to the north.

Russell Island

After rounding the bottom of Saltspring Island, transiting Sansum Narrows and entering Maple Bay - Bird's Eye Cove can be accessed for an overnight moorage at Maple Bay Marina.

Bird's Eye Cove, Maple Bay

 A leisurely sail northwards across Stuart Channel and around to the north side of Thetis Island brings one to the quiet and picturesque North Cove for a protected overnight anchorage.

The final day is an easy passage northwards through Dodd Narrows and arrival in Nanaimo.

An Extended Loop

 The winds are usually light during the summer months in the SGI. You can usually find winds on a regular basis in Plumper Sound which is between Mayne and North Pender Islands just south of Swanson Channel and Active Pass.

Additional destinations could include anchorages in Port Browning where on one of my first visits a bagpiper played to an appreciative anchored audience from somewhere on North Pender Island, and in shallower waters with a tricky entry in Winter Cove which is between Saturna and Samual Islands.

Port Browning, North Pender Island

Winter Cove, Saturna Island

Sailing below Moresby Island and towards Vancouver Island gives one a chance to stay overnight at a protected marina in Port Sydney, or others just to the north before Swartz Bay.

So You Want To Take a Sight on Venus Tonight...

We will ignore the obvious with Venus being close to it's brightest these days at magnitude -4.8, so it will not be hard to find.

The following assumptions will apply...
- artificial horizon
- twilight about 40 minutes, centred on 1800 EST
- Freiberger sextant with IE on the arc = -3.0'
- DR of N 43 deg and W 079 deg

We will do it without technology aids to determine where and when to look with a preset sextant altitude.

The azimuth Z and computed altitude Hc will be close because we are doing it the longform way with tables that are based on whole number entry points. But this will be enough for us to catch Venus within the scope of the sextant when pointed in the right direction.

Don't forget that Z is true and you will need to adjust if using a hand bearing compass for variation - here at Toronto = W 011 deg.

The worksheet is completed just as it would be done for a typical sight, just no actual Ho to compare to, yet.

So you can see from the above worksheet that if you point your sextant towards 238 deg T (249 deg M) at 1800 EST you should pickup Venus at a preset altitude of 37 deg 39.0'

What do we get by looking ahead on Stellarium...

I get...azimuth 237 deg/altitude 35 deg 30.0'

The difference comes about because of the whole number Lat of N 43 deg and our AP Long of W 079 deg 12.9' versus actual of N 43 deg 43.0 and W 079 deg 24.0. We will be close enough to pick it up in the sextant.

So, if the skies remain clear tonight, we will see...

Here is the worksheet from the actual sight and plot...

You can see that Venus was where it was expected to be - any surprise? I took the sight about 10 minutes after 1800 because I almost forgot, but sprang into action as quickly as I could. Venus is going down fast so the altitude is less and also because I am actually further North and further West from the whole number values of the tables.

On the plot you can see that the LOP of the sight reduction is within 1 nm of Actual - this is because the optics through the sextant are a little tricky, there is at times a doubling up of the planet image through the scope (my failing eyesight? I don't use glasses). But this kind of sight if taken on the real ocean would be bang on.

Besides Venus, you can take this approach to pre-locate any other of Mars, Jupiter and Saturn - as well as any of the navigational stars - albeit with a slightly different worksheet approach that involves using the SHA and declination of individual stars